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London Lockout Guide

Locked out

Locked out in London? Do these seven things before you call anyone

Ten calm minutes before you dial can save you hundreds of pounds and a broken door. Here is the order to work through, from free options to paid ones.

Published 24 August 2026 · Updated 27 August 2026

You are on the wrong side of your own front door. The instinct is to search “emergency locksmith” and press the first number. That instinct is expensive, and the whole industry knows it.

Work down this list instead. Most of it is free, and the paid option at the bottom gets considerably cheaper once you arrive at it calmly.

Skip straight to 999 if: a child, a vulnerable adult or an animal is shut inside; there is a fire, gas smell or running water; a break-in is happening; or you feel unsafe where you are standing. A lock is not worth a person.

1. Check every other way in — properly

Not a glance. An actual circuit of the property.

Back door, side gate, patio door, garage internal door, ground-floor windows, the small top window someone opens for the cat. In a block of flats, check whether a neighbour’s balcony or a shared rear access reaches your side.

Do this before anything else, because it costs nothing and it works more often than people expect.

2. Find out who else already has a key

Ask yourself who is holding a spare and does not know you need it:

  • A partner, flatmate or family member at work
  • A neighbour you left one with two years ago
  • A parent or friend in the next borough
  • Your car, your desk drawer, an old coat pocket, a gym locker

A forty-minute wait, or a taxi across London to fetch a key, is almost always cheaper than an emergency callout. Do the arithmetic before dismissing it.

3. If you rent, call the landlord or agent first — before a locksmith

This one matters and most tenants get it wrong.

If you are a tenant, your landlord or letting agent very often holds a set of keys and may have an arrangement with a contractor. Some tenancies also say who pays for a lockout, and some make you liable for work you commission yourself without asking.

So: call them first, even out of hours, even if you assume nobody will answer. Leaving a voicemail at 1am and being able to say you tried is worth having. Arranging your own locksmith and presenting the bill afterwards is how disputes start.

4. Confirm the door is actually locked, not jammed

A surprising number of “lockouts” are stuck doors, not locked ones. Before paying anyone to open it:

  • Push or pull firmly while turning the key or handle. Doors swell and drop.
  • Lift a uPVC door handle fully upward, then try the key. Multipoint locks need the handle raised to engage or release.
  • Check the key itself for damage or bending.
  • If the key turns but nothing happens, say so when you call. A failed mechanism is a different job — and a different price — from a simple lockout.

5. Decide whether this is genuinely an emergency

Be honest about it, because the answer changes the price band significantly.

A callout at 2am on a Sunday costs far more than the same job at 11am on a Tuesday. If it is early evening, you have somewhere warm to sit, and a housemate is home at eleven — waiting is a legitimate, and much cheaper, option.

If you have somewhere safe to spend the night, a morning appointment is routinely half the price of a night emergency. See what a London locksmith should cost.

6. Get a total price on the phone, before anyone travels

When you do call, this is the sentence that protects you:

“Before you set off — what is the total I will pay, including the callout, the labour, any parts and VAT? Please text that figure to me.”

Then wait for the answer. What you are listening for:

  • A specific total, or a tight range with the reason it might vary.
  • A willingness to put it in writing by text or email.
  • A clear answer on whether they open non-destructively or drill.

What should end the call:

  • “The engineer will price it when he arrives.”
  • A callout fee quoted with the labour left vague.
  • Any pressure to confirm before you have a figure.

There is always another locksmith. There is not always another £300.

7. Check who you are actually calling

The number at the top of a search results page is frequently a national call centre that subcontracts to whoever is nearest, at a markup. It is not a local locksmith, whatever the “.london” in the web address suggests.

Two minutes of checks — a real address, a real trading name, a trade body membership — filters out most of the problem. The method is in how to check a locksmith is genuine.

Two things to say when they arrive

“Can this be opened without drilling?” Most standard UK door locks can be opened non-destructively by someone who knows what they are doing. Drilling is sometimes genuinely necessary — but it is also the most common way a cheap job becomes an expensive one, because now you are buying a new lock too.

“Is the price still the figure you texted me?” Ask before work starts, not after. A price that changes on the doorstep is the single clearest warning sign there is, and the moment to stop is before the tools come out.

And once you are inside

Get a spare cut this week and leave it with someone reachable. Almost nobody does this until it happens twice.

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